People sleep cool and sit warm. A house on one thermostat has to pick a side, so somebody is under a blanket on the sofa or somebody is awake at 3 am with the window open.

The pairing here does the picking for you: two 7,000 BTU indoor units for the bedrooms and two 9,000 BTU units for the living space, four controllers in total. Only the zones that are switched on draw from the 36,000 BTU outdoor unit.

What is actually in the cartons

The chart counts it out: one outdoor unit, four indoor units, and for every zone a remote, a wall sleeve, a drain hose, a copper line set, a mounting plate, communication wire and a screw kit. Tape, putty and wall caps come eight up. Line sets are the item most quotes price separately, and there are four of them here, 16 ft each.

What the buttons on the remote do

Dry mode pulls humidity without overcooling, fan mode moves air with the compressor off, and sleep mode drifts the set point overnight. The panel lists six modes and five fan speeds, plus auto swing and a 24 hour timer. With 9,000 BTU on the two largest zones, the upper fan speeds get used more than you might expect.

Bedroom zones after lights out

Three settings decide whether a bedroom zone is liveable. Sleep mode drifts the set point overnight, the screen off setting kills the display so nothing glows at 2 am, and the 24 hour timer can stop the zone at a set hour. The 7,000 BTU indoor unit is rated 30 dB.

The five minute job that keeps it cheap to run

The front panel lifts and the filters slide out. Rinse them under a tap, let them dry, put them back. Four indoor units means four sets to do, and dirty filters are the most common reason a zone stops keeping up and starts costing more to run.

One 36,000 BTU outdoor unit runs all four indoor units. Each zone starts, stops and holds its own temperature, so an empty room costs nothing to leave alone.

A common rule of thumb is 20 to 25 BTU per square foot (Carrier publishes 25). On that basis a 7,000 BTU unit suits roughly 280 to 350 sq ft and a 9,000 BTU unit suits roughly 360 to 450 sq ft. Natural Resources Canada points to CSA F280-12 for a proper load calculation.

The compressor varies its speed instead of cycling on and off. Published ratings are 23 SEER2 for cooling and 10 HSPF2 for heating on R32 refrigerant.

A chassis electrical heater keeps the outdoor base pan clear. The manufacturer rates heating down to -25°C (-13°F) and cooling up to 52°C (125°F).

Each zone gets a 16 ft insulated copper line set and 13 ft of communication wire, plus a 6.5 ft drain hose. That is the material most quotes list separately, four times over on a system this size.

The outdoor unit runs on 208-230V~60Hz, single phase. This is not a standard 15 amp household outlet. It wants its own branch circuit, sized from the MCA and maximum breaker figures on the unit's own nameplate, with a disconnect within reach.

Wifi app plus a remote with a digital display for each zone, and a 24 hour timer. No smart speaker is needed to run it.

The indoor filters pull out, rinse under a tap and go back in. Four heads means four sets, and clean filters are the cheapest way to keep airflow and running cost where they should be.

Ships from our United States warehouse. Delivery to Canada usually takes 8 to 14 business days, with no customs charges or duties to pay on arrival. Free shipping on orders over $150, a flat $18.90 below that, and tracking by email as soon as it leaves.

Return within 14 days of purchase, unused, in original condition and packaging.

Covered directly by the manufacturer under their warranty terms for material and manufacturing defects.

Found it cheaper at a Canadian retailer? Send us the link and we will match that price. It has to be the same item, in stock, sold and shipped inside Canada, and compared like for like on what comes in the box.

Two zones at 7,000 BTU for bedrooms, roughly 280 to 350 sq ft each, and two at 9,000 BTU for living space, roughly 360 to 450 sq ft each.

Older houses, additions, attic conversions and finished basements rarely have duct where it is needed. Four zones from one outdoor unit avoids opening up ceilings.

This is a heat pump, not a cooling only air conditioner. It carries a 10 HSPF2 heating rating and a chassis electrical heater on the outdoor unit for cold weather.

What we stand behind

• Ships from our United States warehouse, free shipping over $150, and 14 day returns unused in the original packaging.
• 14 day returns on unused items in original condition and packaging
• Covered by the manufacturer's own warranty for material and manufacturing defects
• Line sets, communication wire and a controller for every one of the four zones are in the box

How much space will each indoor unit cover?

Sizing runs off the heat load of the room, not just its floor area, and Natural Resources Canada points to CSA F280-12 for the real calculation. As a rough check, 20 to 25 BTU per square foot is the usual rule of thumb. On that basis a 7,000 BTU unit suits roughly 280 to 350 sq ft and a 9,000 BTU unit suits roughly 360 to 450 sq ft. Poor insulation, large west facing windows or a 9 ft ceiling all push the figure up.

Can all four zones run at the same time?

Yes. The four indoor units here total 32,000 BTU and the outdoor unit is rated 36,000 BTU, so the outdoor unit can cover every zone calling at once. Sizing each head to its own room still matters more than the total, because an oversized head in a small room short cycles.

How cold can it get outside before it stops heating?

The manufacturer rates low ambient heating down to -25°C (-13°F), helped by an electric heater in the outdoor chassis. Natural Resources Canada notes that air source heat pumps lose capacity and efficiency as it gets colder, with typical COPs falling from 2.0 to 5.4 at 8°C to 1.1 to 3.7 at -8°C, and that most newer units have a minimum operating temperature between -15°C and -25°C. Keep a backup heat source for the coldest stretches.

Can I install this myself in Canada, and does it run on a normal outlet?

No on both counts. The outdoor unit runs on 208-230V~60Hz, single phase, so it needs its own branch circuit and an electrician, not a wall socket. Refrigerant work is also regulated: Ontario, for example, states that only a certified technician may remove, discharge, handle and dispose of refrigerants including HFCs, and that mechanical work on refrigeration equipment needs a Certificate of Qualification on top of that. Other provinces have their own halocarbon rules, and the federal Code of Practice says the same thing in plainer terms.